Even three years later, I still get a ton of hits on the write-up I did for the ham radio install in my 2014 Ford Escape. Well, the lease on that car has come and gone and I now have a 2017 Ford Escape. You know what that means: time to do it again.
Since I essentially got the same car again, and there is really nothing wrong with the ID-880H or the 2m/70cm antenna I have, I decided to reuse everything from the old car. The only thing I had to purchase was some hardware for the Lido mount, and a new mic holder. So for the complete list of parts see the last install article… I have links to everything I bought and why I chose what I did.
As for the install itself… it went very much like the last install I did. We’ll start with the antenna. The Diamond K412CNMO mount and Comet SBB2NMO mounted onto the tailgate of the Escape, and I ran the coax through the small grommet and the back molding of the cargo area. Like last time the coax went into the spare tire area, into the back seat, under the rear passenger door molding and under the front passenger seat.
The radio itself once again went under the passenger seat. This is for two reasons. First, there is a bit more room under the passenger seat versus the driver’s seat. And since the control head is mounted on the passenger side of the console, it makes running cables a little easier. In the last article I said I used Velcro to hold the radio down to the floor, with the intent of doing something more permanent later. Surprisingly, the Velcro never had one issue that caused the radio to slide loose. So I have reused the Velcro on the bottom of the radio again.
The head unit placement in this install did change slightly. The old Escape had a manual passenger chair, whereas the new one has a powered passenger chair. Thus, there is less room under the front of the seat to attach the mount. Luckily I was able to find a hole in the power seat track for me to put a screw and attach the Lido Mount’s base.
Finally is power. While the body of the 2017 Ford Escape is different from the 2014, the overall frame is the same, thus the grommet for the firewall is in the exact same place. The only other change here is one I made. Instead of going for the large O-ring type connectors to go over the battery terminals, I opted for spade terminals to go over the battery tightening screw and negative frame terminal. I went this route because I was having issues with the O-ring connections coming loose in the old install. While I may swap out for some larger spades later, this should work better I’m thinking. They are standard run-of-the-mill 12 gauge spade terminal connectors that are available from Digikey, or really any electronics parts vendor.
And there you have it. the complete install of my Icom ID-880H in my 2017 Ford Escape. I realize I didn’t go into as much detail as last time, but again, nothing has really changed. I would encourage you to read previous install article for a more-detailed write up of the install.
Got any questions on what I did, or what I should have done differently? Throw ’em in the comments. I’m always looking for ways to make things better!